Hugo Boss has signed up designer Jason Wu, a favorite of American First Lady Michelle Obama, as the German fashion house seeks to sell more women's dresses and suits in the United States and China.
Hugo Boss, mainly known for its
suits for men, gets about 11 percent of its 2.4 billion euros ($3.2
billion) in annual sales from womenswear and has been looking to expand
this area.
Taiwan-born Wu, known
for his love of ladylike designs, founded his eponymous label in New
York in 2007 but rose to fame after designing the ivory one-shoulder
gown that Michelle Obama wore to Barack Obama's first inauguration ball in 2009.
He also designed the red dress she wore to Obama's second inauguration ball in February this year.
"I
plan to develop a strong, feminine womenswear collection that
reciprocates the brand's authority in menswear," he said in a statement
on Monday.
Wu, 30, will take on the
newly created position of artistic director for Boss Womenswear, with
his first collection for the brand to be shown in autumn and a debut
runway show during the New York Fashion Week in February 2014.
The
group is in negotiations with Womenswear Creative Director Eyan Allen,
who has been with the company since 2007, over his future role, a
spokeswoman for Hugo Boss told Reuters. Wu's new title is superior to
that of Allen's.
Womenswear has so
far proven difficult for Hugo Boss, as the market is more crowded than
that for men's fashions, HSBC analyst Antoine Belge said.
"Even
Hugo Boss has acknowledged that it's not where it wants to be on
womenswear. They haven't yet found the right balance between classic and
comfortable and more cutting-edge," he told Reuters.
Hugo
Boss posted a 5 percent fall in womenswear sales in the first quarter
of 2013, while sales of menswear were down 2 percent, mainly due to a
shift in the number of collections it is producing a year.
"This
will generate a powerful and creative statement for Boss Womenswear and
show our commitment to focus even more on the female side of the
brand," Hugo Boss Chief Executive Claus Dietrich Lahrs said of the
appointment.
The appointment of
Taiwan-born Wu comes after France's Cacharel signed up Chinese designers
Ling Liu and Dawei Sun in 2011. A Hugo Boss spokeswoman said Wu's
appointment was not meant to reflect a focus on any market in
particular, but that the group was impressed by his international style.
However, Wu is popular in China,
a key battleground for luxury clothing brands. Hugo Boss is pushing its
presence there through a catwalk show in Shanghai and is opening new
flagship stores in Shanghai and Hong Kong.
The
announcement also comes on the same day that British handbag designer
Mulberry said the creative director behind its famous Alexa and Del ray
bags, Emma Hill, had asked to leave the group.
($1 = 0.7564 euros)
(Reporting by Victoria Bryan; Editing by Mark Potter)
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